A post-Civil War mining town with a rough and rowdy past, Park City www.parkcityinfo.com has become increasingly upscale and precious -- not that that's a bad thing. Historic Main Street is framed by 1880s facades, charmingly outlined in white lights at night, with numerous steep public staircases joining the town to its narrow, hillside residential streets. Place names such as Prospector Square, the Claim Jumper and, pardon the pun, the Grub Steak recall those distant mining days. In winter, more than 1.9 million visitors vacation in the 12-square-mile resort town, attracted by the avalanche of mountain sports on feather-light powder snow. And of course, Hollywood descends each January for the Sundance Film Festival, marking its 24th year in Park City from Jan. 17 to 27.

WHERE TO HIBERNATE

Hotels range from the super-budget Chateau Apres Lodge (1299 Norfolk Ave., [435] 649-9372) to the new ultra-posh, loftily priced Sky Lodge at the foot of Main Street (201 Heber Ave., [435] 658-2500). The Yarrow (1800 Park Ave., [435] 649-7000) is no-frills but Albertsons-adjacent. Another option: Craigslist Salt Lake City overflows with condo rental offers. Prices triple during Sundance; Presidents Day is the next biggie, with multi-night reservations required.